Signs your home is out of level
- Doors and windows that stick or bind.
- Floors that slope or feel uneven.
- New cracks in walls or ceilings.
- Creaking sounds you didn't used to hear.
- Skirting or siding that's buckling.
- A home that looks tilted from the street.
What level means
HUD's installation standard calls a home level when there's no more than 1/4 inch difference between neighboring piers, and the exterior doors and windows don't bind. See 24 CFR 3285.6. So a quick check of your own is simple: if a door that used to close easily now drags, the home may have moved.
Why homes settle in Polk County
- Soil: HUD requires footings on firm, undisturbed soil or properly compacted fill, with grass, roots and wood scraps cleared away. See 24 CFR 3285.201.
- Water: the ground should slope at least 1/2 inch per foot away from the home for the first 10 feet (24 CFR 3285.203). FEMA notes that saturated soil is weaker than dry soil, so poor drainage matters in our wet summers.
- Leaks: a plumbing leak, or AC condensate dripping under the floor, can wet the ground right where the piers sit.
- Soil can vary across one lot. Polk's set-up paperwork calls for a pocket penetrometer soil test at six spots around the home, at footing depth, and uses the lowest reading. See Polk's soil and anchoring form.
How re-leveling works
- The installer gets under the home, lifts it with hydraulic jacks and checks each pier with a water level.
- Low spots get shims, which HUD says are nominally 4 by 6 by 1 inch and must be used in pairs. Cracked blocks and failed pads are replaced. See 24 CFR 3285.304.
- Concrete blocks must be at least 8 by 8 by 16 inches. Frame piers can be no more than 120 inches apart under the main rails, and within 24 inches of each end (24 CFR 3285.310).
- Frame piers from 36 to 67 inches high are double-stacked, and taller ones must be designed by an engineer or architect (24 CFR 3285.306).
- Tie-downs come last. HUD's order is level first, then secure the home against wind, so straps get re-tensioned once the home is level. If they're rusty, this is the time to replace them.
Who can do it
Florida's definition of mobile home setup includes blocking and leveling, and anyone who installs a home needs an installer's license (Fla. Stat. 320.822, Fla. Stat. 320.8249). The state doesn't spell out how that applies to re-leveling a home that's already set, so the safe choice is a licensed installer. FLHSMV posts a monthly list of licensed installers, and its Manufactured Housing Section takes questions at 850-617-3004.
What leveling costs
This Old House puts re-leveling at about $450 to $600 for a single-wide, $750 to $900 for a double-wide and $1,000 or more for a triple-wide. Other guides run higher. Expect to pay more if the home is far out of level, if blocks or pads need replacing, or if access underneath is tight. The same guide says foundation repairs average about $4,500. See This Old House on leveling costs. Ask for a written quote that lists how many piers will be reset or replaced.
How often does a home need it?
HUD's standard doesn't set a schedule, and there's no honest number of years that fits every home. Watch for the signs above. Have the home checked after a major storm, after flooding, and after any leak under the floor. FEMA says a home that has shifted should be reset to center it on its piers. See FEMA P-85.
Before the crew arrives
- Write down which doors and windows stick, and when it started.
- Fix leaks and drainage first, or the home may settle again.
- In a park, tell the manager. Exterior changes need the park owner's written approval.
- Clear the skirting access panel, and move anything stored against the base of the home.
- Don't jack the home yourself. A home can shift off its piers, and a crushed pipe or a fall from a jack is far costlier than a service call.
Questions to ask before you sign
- Are you licensed as a mobile home installer, and what's your number?
- How many piers will you reset, and will any blocks or pads be replaced?
- How will you check level when you're done?
- Will you re-tension the tie-downs, and are any rusted?
- Who takes off and puts back the skirting?
- Can your insurance agent send proof of coverage?